Concrete Playground

It’s really all about the lasagne. There are many reasons that you might come to Buzo; you’re in need of a cosy place to gird yourself against the elements, or you’re scratching for somewhere elegant but relaxed to celebrate an anniversary that doesn’t end in a zero. Maybe you’re in Woollahra and need the kind of comfort that comes from banquette seats, dark wood walls and a wine list with more than 150 choices on it.

For most people, the real lure of Buzo has been the vincisgrassi. It’s a lasagna gilded with porcini, prosciutto and truffle that’s as rich and voluptuous as many of the matrons in the vicinity. You might want to think about sharing - it packs a punch. If you’re after something lighter the salad of savoy cabbage, pine nut, raisin and pecorino is as sprightly as an operetta. Though for many the lure of the sticky beef short ribs cooked in vin cotto will prove too strong, as you see how the meat wilts off the bone. Those hearty flavours continue through to dessert, where the warm baked chocolate with almonds and vanilla gelato has a soufflé like interior but a cracking crust. If there’s little room left at the inn then a glass of vin santo with crumbly cantucci biscuits on the side is a grand way to close off an evening. Or if for some reason the mood has got too heavy, then lemon gelato, whisked to a frothy concoction with prosecco may help lighten it.

As the night moves on the noise at Buzo can escalate, rolling around both upstairs and down.  But all in all, it’s a festive place for restrained fun. If only all neighbourhoods had an Italian like this.