Concrete Playground

Pub Life is the brainchild of Jovan Curic and Daniel Gorgioski, a faithful extension of the Stanley Street la famiglia. There's something new happening here though: the vibe of a younger generation, fresh menu items and the chilled atmosphere of the Mac make Pub Life a sequel worth visiting.

We begin in the pub downstairs. I've never stepped foot inside the Macquarie Hotel and it's a surprise: with antique wall tiles and stained glass in the wooden doorways, this is a tucked away treasure. Sidling up to the bar, we opt for Dr. Schwartz's Wild Wheat, which tastes, strangely enough, like bananas. Brewed inside the hotel in a microbrewery, this is about as local as it gets. Plus we catch happy hour (Monday to Friday between 5 and 7), which means that our beers are a mere $3 a pop.

Next, we head up the wooden stairs to the restaurant, passing beneath a doorway with 'Harpoon Harry's' spelled out in stained glass. At a glance, the menu is an authentic chip off the old block. Jovi's father has been the chef at the original Bill and Toni's since '85. 'I grew up under the tables at Bill and Toni's', Jovi tells me, 'and sometimes feel I was born out of a pot of bolognese'. While Dad is not quite ready to pass on his secrets, the bolognese and schnitzels are prepared at Stanley Street and delivered over daily. The trademark dishes (and generous serves) are repeated here at the same cheap as chips prices, with nothing on the menu over $18.

There's definitely some new twists. The music is no longer what Jovi terms 'dream haunting Italian classics', replaced here by stuff of the younger generation. The 'pub' take on the brand is reflected in Dan's new additions to the menu: wedges, salt 'n' pepper squid, bruschetta and cream-based pastas make the cut. We've cleverly timed our visit on a Wednesday night for Burger Tastings, an evening already developing a cult following. The burger is different every week, and only fifteen are made each night (so you need to turn up early). Being firm followers of the original Bill and Toni's, we decide to branch out and join in on the tasting.

Our burgers ($14) arrive served up in a familiar red and yellow 'Hot Food 2 Go' box, with a side of fries tucked in. Thankfully, the burgers live up to the novelty. Tonight the house pattie is topped with tomato relish, crispy pancetta, jack cheese, American mustard, mayonnaise and grilled onion, all on a soft, steamed bun. It's a monster serving. Previous offerings have included beer-battered onion rings (yes, on the burger), wasabi mayo with daikon, beetroot relish with caramelised pineapple, and the infamous cheese-injected pattie.

The atmosphere is super relaxed, an extension of the original aesthetic. Despite the new take, there's absolutely no ego. Daily lunch specials are $10, featuring grain fed steak or fish, plus chips. Tuesdays are Cheap Steak night, setting you back a hard-to-beat $12. And with plenty of room, Pub Life can cater for big groups and functions.