Concrete Playground

If this is the food that transforms you into ‘fat boy’ (Fei Jai), then I’m willing to take the risk. Fei Jai, run by a relative of Flower Drum's Lau family, is all cosy Cantonese comfort food in chic Potts Point surrounds.

Dark, moody and tiny, with not a plastic table in sight, Fei Jai is a little more sophisticated than the average Cantonese in Chinatown, and a little less spicy than the likes of Spice Temple. Cantonese is a welcome addition to Potts Point, and Fei Jai is attracting the hungry locals who frequent neighboring Fratelli Paradiso and Zinc, but fancy something a little more spicy and a lot more comforting.

The friendly staff are a hip and professional bunch, handing out steaming dumplings and Cantonese treats, and passing out fresh plates faster than you can drop your chopsticks. When you want everything on the starters page, sharing is a good option: Seafood San Choi Bau, Prawn and Scallop Dim Sim and Char Sui Pancakes with Finely Sliced Pork are all a great success. If the staff offer you a special of Eggplant with Crab and Egg White, do yourself a favour and listen up. It’s the dish of the night: silky, clean and moreish. Eggplant will never be the same. Singapore Chilli Prawns come a close second, and our plates finish up wiped clean.

There’s inevitably a little bit of Fei Jai in everyone by the end of a meal here.