Concrete Playground

The Sailors Club is the inner east's latest habourside goldmine. Perched on Rose Bay at the old Pier site, the newbie draws an eclectic crowd with its bright dining room, colourful banquettes and relaxed atmosphere. Then there's the fact that they serve breakfast, lunch and dinner with everything under $30. We're not quite sure how that's actually working, but we're not complaining.

Gone is the quiet formality of Pier, which has been replaced with the Sailors Club's casual menu in an even more casual setting. For breakfast, try the Campari crepe suzette ($12) or the toasted brioche, quince and ricotta ($13) with a side of water view and bask in the glory of such weekend luxury. Come midday, the lounge-licious bar encourages indulgence in all forms, whilst the restaurant caters to those after something more substantial. The dining room's decor is at once striking - think 1960s mod style Palm Springs -  and makes dining here charasmatic. Of a luncheon, try the flathead in Cooper's batter with chips and tartare sauce ($25), the tuna burger with beetroot relish ($22) or the roast pumpkin cannelloni, greens and toasted pumpkin seeds ($24). Add to this a tequila-heavy margarita ($17) and you're in boozey lunch heaven.

While the airy daytime vibes might easily have one believing that this is a lunch-specific venue, the Sailors Club sports a glowing room of an evening and presents an argument to the contrary. The dinner service has diners looking out over the glistening lights flooding across the quiet waters of Rose Bay and offers an assortment of culinary delights. You might start with half a dozen local oysters ($4 each) or the softest of leeks with fromage blanc ($15). Move on to an osso bucco with wild olive, chilli and mint ($24) or the beef burger ($22), cooked through with caramelised onion and crisp lettuce. Our pick for dessert would be the custard apple and banana sundae ($15) with all that textural  pop and crunch we expect or the poached quince, malted milk and passionfruit ($14) for a fruit-glorious finale.

The Sailors Club is a welcome addition to Sydney's harbourside dining scene and we've a feeling the place is going to blossom into something even more delectable come summer. Highly recommended.