Where: Ground level, The Star, 80 Pyrmont Street, Pyrmont 2009
Opening Hours: Lunch Thu - Fri 12 - 3pm, Dinner Tue - Sun 5.30 - 11pm
Phone: 02 9657 9109
Set within luxurious surrounds, BLACK by ezard is the Star's steak in shining armour. A favourite amongst the casino's high rolling gamblers, BLACK is a beef fiend's haven. Chef Teage Ezard plates up American grill-inspired steaks and a considered seafood menu, offering diners variety in choice.
BLACK's interior might present itself in blatant contrast to Sydney's favour of casual dining, but for that we hail it a welcome indulgence. Bunk down in one of the wood and copper-paneled booths, at the sultry bar or book ahead to secure a private room. And to go with the decadent decor? Celebrity chefs and inspiring food.
Teage Ezard is somewhat of a fine dining rockstar and has championed contemporary food at his Melbourne joints ezard and Gingerboy. The former an Asian inspired stalwart on Melbourne's dining scene and the latter a trendy laneway diner dishing up East Asian street food. Joining him to work the grills at BLACK is vegas-born executive chef, Michael Tripp.
Start with half a dozen freshly shucked oysters with wakame jelly ($12) to awken the buds; the wakame jelly adds a bold spicy punch to the delicacy of the oysters. The sashimi of hiramasa kingfish with sesame custard, edamame puree and chardonnay and shallot dressing ($27) is another quality choice if after something light to whet one's appetite.
And if we're honest, we're here for the beef. The 300g scott fillet, gain fed angus ($65) has a marble rating of 4+ and is suited to those after a hefty slab of meat. Add to this a side of peppercorn sauce ($7) and the crisp potato with crème fraiche, smoked bacon with aged cedar ($10) and it's most likely you'll be adjusting your notches. For something a little more refined, the flat iron, grain fed wagyu ($68) with a +9 marble rating can only be described as a tender god. A marrow and shallot sauce ($4) is the better fit for the wagyu.
And for those who are game, there's always dessert. The poached peach with vanilla ice cream and toasted cereal cookie is a winning contrast of pop and crunch whilst the tart with rhubarb and strawberry compote, pepper jelly and white balsamic meringue offers a sweet berry finish.
BLACK is expensive, yes, and not for everyone. But if you're around the casino traps and so happen to get lucky, you should call it all or nothing. For indulgence at its best, BLACK's the winning bet.
By Lisa Omagari
Flat iron grain fed wagyu
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